Winnie’s Soul Delicious restaurant causing a sensation on Marshall Street - syracuse.com

Syracuse, N.Y — The secret to soul food, chef Dawn Evette Reed says, is love, time — and seasonings.

“It’s all about the love you put into to it,” said the owner of the newly opened Winnie’s Soul Delicious restaurant in the heart of Marshall Street near Syracuse University.

As for the time, Reed said, “You can’t just throw a collard green in the pot and say it’s done. It takes time and attention. That lets you put even more love into it.

“And in African-American culture,” she adds, “we like to make up our own seasonings, to make it special.”

All that may explain the long lines of people waiting to get in to Winnie’s since it opened on Wednesday. People have been standing out in the cold for up to an hour “with no complaints,” Reed said.

Winnie’s, at 123 Marshall St., serves its food cafeteria-style for takeout, a set-up that also fits perfectly for the challenges of coronavirus dining. There are currently no seats.

The menu includes “meals” of items like fried chicken or fish, beef or pork ribs, fried or smothered pork chops, along with stewed pork feet, smoked turkey wing and oxtail over rice. Sides range from collard greens and fried okra, to blackeye peas and pinto beans, candied yams and the dish Reed considers her signature, baked mac n cheese.

“I don’t know, but everybody seems to love my mac and cheese,” Reed said. There are also sandwiches and desserts. A peach cobbler will be added to the menu soon.

At lunch time on Thursday, the hot sellers seemed to be the ribs, mac n cheese and candied yams.

Reed has been cooking since she was 12 or 13, “with my grand mom and mom in the kitchen.” Her restaurant is named for her mother, Winnie Reed, who passed away ten years ago.

Dawn Reed and her mother both grew up in Syracuse, but the family traces its roots back to Bessemer. Ala., where her grandmother grew up.

Reed is passing that cooking knowledge on: She runs Winnie’s with her own daughter, Shante Lewis. Other family members help round out the crew.

Reed has been working as a catering chef for years, most recently at the Ramada Inn on Carrier Circle. The coronavirus put a crimp in that business, and also delayed her grand opening from her initial chosen date, Aug. 12, which is her mother’s birthday.

Why did she choose Marshall Street? “As a kid growing up in Syracuse, we’d come here all the time to hang out,” she said, although she points she’s not a drinker or someone who goes to bars.

“Marshall Street is a place where both Syracuse people and out of town people come,” Reed said. “I want people to come here from wherever they live and have some food they’ll remember.”

She also likes the people who will likely be the regulars — including hospital and college staff and students.

“The students have been so nice,” she said, referring to the ones who have been forced to stay on or near campus by the pandemic. “They appreciate good food that feels like home.”

She’s also well aware of the fact that Winnie’s has become the first Black-owned business of any kind on Marshall Street.

“That’s an honor I’m very proud of,” she said.

For now, business is takeout only, but Reed plans to start up online ordering and possible delivery in the next few weeks. Winnie’s is open, for now, from Wednesday through Sunday. The hours are evolving, so it’s best to check its Facebook page.

Winnie’s occupies a small space that was most recently Calio’s calzone shop, tucked between Moghul Indian Grill and Shirt World.

Reed says she’s been “overwhelmed” by the crowds of people coming to Winnie’s in its first few days.

“It just makes me feel good to see that,” she said. “It’s love. I know my Mom would be proud, too.”

MORE ON RESTAURANTS AND DINING IN CNY

Opening of new Syracuse-area IHOP delayed

Downtown Syracuse coffee shop looks to add beer, wine and cocktails to the mix

Why more CNY restaurants and bars are opting to shut down and wait for better times

Syracuse seafood restaurant opens new location in DeWitt

Deep dish: Tangy Tomato brings Chicago-style pizza to Syracuse

Don Cazentre writes for NYup.com, syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. Reach him at dcazentre@nyup.com, or follow him at NYup.com, on Twitter or Facebook.

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